The Doon Dictionary
-
Achha
Literally means "good" or "okay," but it’s the Swiss Army knife of Indian conversation. Depending on the tone, it can mean "I understand," "That’s great," "Really?" or "I’m listening." If you know your Geordie, it's kind of similar to "Howay".
-
Azo-Free Dyes
When we don’t use natural plant dyes, we use high-quality synthetic dyes that are free from harmful "Azo" compounds. They are safer for the skin of the wearer and much kinder to the water systems in Jaipur.
-
Bagru Print
Sanganer’s more rustic cousin. Bagru printing usually features bold, geometric patterns often printed on indigo or "Seyali" (black/ochre) backgrounds using natural resists.
-
Bhai
Means "Brother" and is the equivalent on using the word "mate" in the UK, but with more familial overtones. It's a great word, and being referred to as "bhai" gives you a fuzzy feeling inside.
-
Brown Cotton
This isn't dyed brown—it grows that way. It is a naturally pigmented, indigenous variety of cotton that comes out of the ground in earthy tan and cinnamon shades. By using Brown Cotton, we eliminate the dyeing process entirely, saving thousands of liters of water.
-
Charkha
The traditional wooden spinning wheel used to make Khadi yarn. It's a rhythmic, manual process that requires immense skill to ensure the yarn is consistent but still retains the "human touch". If you've ever seen pictures of Gandhi at home, he was often found spinning a charkha.
-
Compostable Packaging
Our mailers and tags are made from plant-based materials. Once you’ve unpacked your new favorite shirt, you can put the packaging in the compost heap. Soil to Shoulder, then back to the soil.
-
Chai
More than just tea; it’s the fuel of our business. If the chai hasn't arrived, the meeting hasn't started. It’s sweet, milky, spicy, and the ultimate "chin-wag" companion.
-
Chin-wag
A proper chat over a cup of chai. This is the official currency of our business meetings in Jaipur. No corporate briefings, just chin-wags. There's probably a Hindi word for this, but I'm yet to be told it.
-
Hand-Block Printing
The heart of Jaipur craftsmanship. A design is carved into a teak wood block, dipped in dye, and stamped onto the fabric by hand. The tiny, beautiful variations in where the block lands are what creates the "Human Signature."
-
Handloom
A weaving machine operated entirely by a person’s hands and feet, without electricity. A handloom weaver can usually produce about 4 to 5 meters of fabric a day.
-
Hemp
The marathon runner of natural fibers. Hemp requires very little water, captures more CO2 than most trees, and is significantly stronger than industrial cotton. It starts out crisp and "linen-like" but undergoes a magic transformation: it gets softer, more comfortable, and more characterful with every single wash.
-
Ikat
This is "weaving with a plan." Unlike printing, where the pattern goes on top of the fabric, Ikat patterns are created by tie-dyeing the yarn before it is woven. The "hazy" edges of the pattern are the hallmark of a genuine Ikat and a sign of the incredible skill required by the weaver to line the threads up.
-
Jugaad
A uniquely Indian concept. It’s the art of "frugal innovation" or finding a clever, grassroots fix for a problem. When a machine breaks or a resource is scarce, jugaad is what gets the job done.
-
Kala Cotton
Native to the Kutch region of Gujarat, this is one of the world's most sustainable cottons. It is purely rain-fed (no massive irrigation projects) and grows organically without the need for pesticides. It has a slightly rugged, "toothy" texture that gives any kala garment a beautiful structure. It's also really comfy.
-
Kapas
Raw cotton. This is the "Soil" part of "Soil to Shoulder."
-
Kargha
The Hindi word for the loom itself, typically a handloom. Hindi's a little bit older than electricity.
-
Khadi
Often called the "Fabric of Freedom," Khadi is the ultimate expression of slow fashion. It refers to fabric that is both hand-spun and hand-woven. Because the yarn hasn't been stretched and stressed by high-speed industrial machines, it retains its natural strength and breathability.
-
Mini Doon
Our upcoming range of matching sets for the next generation. Whether it’s Father/Son or Uncle/Nephew (shoutout to Uncle Stink-pants), we want all sizes of lads and dads to be in the same epic clobber!
-
Namaste / Namaskar
The traditional greeting, accompanied with a small bow and your hands pressed together.
-
Natural Indigo
A dye derived from the Indigofera tinctoria plant. It’s an "alive" dye that ages like a good pair of jeans, developing a unique patina over time.
-
Sanganeri Print
A style of block printing native to Sanganer (once near Jaipur, now very much within the greater urban area), famous for its delicate floral motifs, fine lines, and vibrant colors on white/off-white backgrounds.
-
Shanti
Peace or calm. We like to think there’s a bit of shanti woven into every hand-loomed shirt.
-
Sut
Yarn or thread. The building block of everything we make.
-
Tana & Bana
These are the Hindi terms for Warp and Weft. Tana is the longitudinal thread; Bana is the horizontal one that dances back and forth.
-
Thik Hai
Pronounced teek-hay. It means "It’s alright" or "All good". Another one of the very few hindi words I've learnt to use with applomb. I love a cheeky "thik hai" when agreeing with someone on something.
-
Warp vs. Weft
The two sets of threads that make up any fabric. The Warp runs vertically (long-ways) on the loom, while the Weft is the thread that the weaver passes back and forth horizontally.
-
Yarn-Dyed
This means the threads were dyed in vats before the fabric was woven. This results in much deeper, more "lived-in" color saturation and high color-fastness (meaning your shirt won’t fade after three washes).